Ok, so I gave up for a while...

I got so frustrated with that jacket I was working on, I gave up for several days and decided to make a different jacket, an out of print mccalls that is not as fitted and has only a few pieces. Feeling very inadequate, I went to shopping this week and actually ended up finding the book "Fit for Real People" http://www.amazon.com/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278435 by Palmer and Pletsch, the two women who actually created the pattern I was so frustrated with!

To make a long story short, I bought the book after looking through it and realizing that not all of the possible alterations had been given on their pattern and there are two specific problems I have:

1. As a plus size, I have larger arms, but even though I made a change to the pattern for my bigger arm circumference, I should have thought to raise the sleeve cap on the sleeve pattern. It isn't deep enough and when I raised my arms on the toile I made, it pulled across the front and I felt like I couldn't lift my arm all the way. (That SHOULD have been clue 1)

2. I had made the slightly rounded back alteration. As a teacher and previous secretary and bank teller, I have worked with computers and at a desk for many years. However, I didn't think to rotate the arm hole on the pattern. I believe this is actually my biggest problem and after I make the change (on my 3rd toile!) I hope beyond words that it fits correctly.

If anyone else has any other suggestions for me, I'd be happy to try anything because I love, love, love this pattern, but I will be forced to give it up if I can't make the proper alterations. Like I said, that only problem I have now is that the arm isn't fitting well and pulls horizontal creases across my upper chest if I lift my arm while wearing it. Of course, I could just walk around without raising my arms, but what if I need to hail a taxi or something....?